Assam Vaishnavaite Textile Pattern

Hindu mythology has its profound impact on Assam art and culture no doubt but textile is rare to hear as here in this state of India many centuries ago a great Saint named Srimanta Sankardev introduced first Vaishnavaite textile pattern.

Assam always hold its prominence due to its rich textile materials and profound silk products with intrinsic pattern skillfully developed by hands which makes it priceless out which vaishnavaite is one. Usually on a light backdrop of plain silk cloth, artistic and creative vaishnavaite patterns relating to special characters and tales from Hindu mythology concepts are displayed. To create an outstanding visual impact on the fabric to help people easily familiarize with the pattern and capture their attention.

Designers use complex weaving techniques where lampa is one. Complicated process of dyeing and weaving techniques are used with detail attention to perfectly bring alive the prominent vaishnavaite characters like Krishna and its famous act ‘kalia domon’ (tame of the poisonous and evil snake king) and related stories of courage by displaying scenes from ‘Krishna Leela.’ Mainly the fascinating characters of demon’s exploitation to expose Krishna’s heroic deed to unburden Mother Earth or Bhumi Devi from the atrocities of sinners are best encrypted with threads on woven silk cloth b vaishnavaite.

Styles of vaishnavaite pattern relates to significant symbols, figures and encrypted words in mythological books. The concept of textile weaving is similar to the technique of rest, vaishnavaite textile designers adapts the same tedious art of producing threads by breeding specials moths. To make the moths lays eggs on bamboo sticks for development of worms to make particular silk cocoons.

The process of gathering silk from cocoon is known as sericulture which is quite laborious art as it demands not only precision, patience but also intensive skills. To secure the worms from its predators and rearing on bamboo sticks till the phase of worm development after hatching. For feeding, the worms are transferred to their suitable plants like Eri,Muga, Oak Tassar and Mulberry.

Dry leaves are later arranged below the plant when the worm becomes voracious eater and slips down the plant at night to prepare their protective shell or cocoon to take on to its next stage. Specification of silk yarns is made by encrypting the plant names like tassar, oak and pat.

Muga silk vaishnav vastra or dress was made specially to observe religious function of Vaishnavaite community. The idea of vaisnav pattern was made in context to signify religious occasions like Krishna Janma Utsav or Krishna Leela Utsav. This traditional design pattern was formulated not for commercial purpose but to best invigorate the religious mood. But now Vaishnavaite textile pattern is implemented to meet both ends religious cum commercial purposes.

Co-Editor-Anima Borah