Assam’s Identity Concealed in Gamocha Fabric

‘Gamocha’ when the word is uttered automatically a red pattern on white background scarf hanging around the neck of Assamese people reflects in mind but few know that it has an interesting history concealed in it, representing its cultural identity.

Many a times we have seen that Gamocha is displayed as welcome sign by Assamese people but rarely people are aware that it was introduced by weavers of Assam for daily use. Small but very handy this Gamocha textile while working or standing in heat or cold as it works as a shield under all harsh climatic conditions. Normally it has become accustomed to see it sport on the heads of male farmers and dancers as they used it to wipe out the sweat after tiresome work.

History reflects that it is an essential part of every household due to which Gamocha has become significance of Assam’s culture. Most importantly this hand-loom fabric of Assam, Gamocha derived its name from ‘Ga’ means body and ‘Mocha’ means wipe. It can be said that by club of two meaningful words of local dialect like ‘Ga’+ ‘Mocha’=’Gamocha’.

Traditional art of weaving ‘Gamocha’ was followed from ancient time. Red contrasting design with white background this rectangular piece of fabric is usually made in one hand measure. Set colorfully with red floral, geometric and nature inspired designs on border areas, followed by stripes on outer corner as per to tradition. But today some even create this small handy or scarf cotton cloth piece in green thread works.

Gamosa is also used as a token of love and respect for special occasion as this textile is incumbent for every household due to its necessity. In religious place like ‘Namghar’ where the holy book is placed in the wooden carved throne with temple design, specially designed large single piece of Gamosa with white and red combination art inspired from the concepts of religious scriptures are used for its enhancement.

As researched by Research Officer-in- Charge of Assam Hand-loom , Jayanta Deva Sarma who in ‘Ancient Assamese Costumes and Design’ book mentioned, “There are meaningful patterns of Gamocha inspired from scripture’s character, words and floral concept. Gutmali, Angur, Parijat lata Mokardama Phul, Parijat Mala, Krishna Yashoda, Gulancha Lata, Aparajita, Sankha Chakra Lata, Bahari, Mokardama Phul and Nayantra are all floral concept pattersn with meaningful names derived from scriptures and nature.”

Jayanta Deva revealed a historic insight of Gamocha which were prepared by Vaishnavite weavers and mentioned, “ Vaishnavite pattern woven mainly on silk and cotton fabrics with artistic design inspired from mythological characters.  The Gamocha with Vaishnavite pattern is named as ‘Thapana Orgosainkapur’.” 

The ‘Thapana Orgosainkapur’ is used to cover the main wooden carved throne of animal figures like lion and Garunda Vahana (vishnu’s carrier  an enormous eagle) including the decorative brass metal stand used for offerings to God or Prasad. ‘Thapana’ is the wooden carved throne whereas ‘Orgosainkapur’ is the Gamocha textile.

Namghosa and Kirtana are the two holy books introduced by Gurudev Srimanta Sankardeva which are placed in the ‘Thapana’ are covered with Vaishnavite pattern  ‘Orgosainkapur’ textile traditionally. Usually Gamocha is prepared in 1.50X 0.70 meters size by using above traditional motifs or modified modern infusion pattern according to Hand-loom Research Department of Assam. Till date the concept of inner pattern in Gamocha is customarily laid out with side and cross border in red stripes with infusion of floral design at one end of it.